How to use an industrial sewing machine? (You must know)

Sewing machines come in a variety, but we should not let this confuse us while purchasing. One thing, which is used to sew materials, is well known (cotton, gabardine, etc.) The industrial tank or semi-tank machine is another very unique one; it can be referred to by any of these three terms. 

Within it, we find the straight; it is the simplest; it is recommended to start with it. The machine that follows is the double drag machine; as its name suggests, in addition to the traditional drag, it also has Dragged on the presser foot. What is it for?

They are followed by the triple drag machine and the renowned “cannon,” but we are talking about getting started here, so it is obviously not a good idea to try to park a bus if you don’t know how to park a car. It is also helpful because it is a synchronized feed, which eliminates our worry about the presser foot wrinkling the fabric (it is partially solved with a Teflon presser foot).  

Personally, I advise starting with the double or triple feed flat machine. The pace is the same as the straight one; the only difference and potential source of initial apprehension is the moving presser foot.

Making friends with it is what we need to do first. If the handbook is in Chinese, I’ll highlight the most important points to remember as you read it.

In this image, we can see what the names of the machine’s key components are, which will help us comprehend it later.

MAIN PARTS OF THE MACHINE

1. Head            2. Countertop   3. Tension Reg.   4. Stitch Reg.    5. Steering wheel

6. Thread holder   7. Bobbin charger   8. Docking    9. Motor   10. Lev. presser foot

11. Power   12. Pedal

The thread is very important because when one is just starting out, it is very common to start abruptly or to continue sewing without fabric. Yes, the thread is of poor quality, but we are going to live to the thread as it will cut at every step. Next, you must choose the thread. In the case of leather goods, nylon thread No. 60 is most commonly used.

The bobbin is located in the machine‘s crochet, running the metal cap that is attached to the feed teeth. Once the thread has been chosen, let’s go on to loading the bobbin. To remove the bobbin, lift the tab of the bobbin holder and gently pull. It needs to be made clear that the needle has to be up. 

Because the crochet is not always in a position to extract the bobbin, this is the method to locate it. Never by force, the crochet is very delicate, if one mistreats it, at least it gets out of the stitch and that’s where it starts the hooping process. If we feel that it is stuck, we keep the left hand on the tab of the spool holder, take the right hand to the steering wheel of the machine, and make small movements to one side and the other.

The spool is loaded and put back in the spool holder. Pass it through the slots, and extend it. The spool should rotate clockwise. See the picture.

After this step is completed then we can put the spool holders back into the crochet just as we removed it using the tab elevated and the smooth movement from the wheel until we feel it’s well-fitted.

Following that, threading the top thread. We go through each of the holes one by one, then over the regulator of tension until we are at the point and the needle. We thread it looking straight ahead, moving from Left to Right.

Once the needle has been threaded, it is necessary to take the thread out of the bobbin. We perform this in this manner: we grip the upper thread and using the assistance of our hands, we turn the wheel, allowing us to insert the needle, and remove the thread from the bobbin. We then made the first stitch.

We are all set to begin testing. Until we reach the required sensitivity of our feet, we have to assist ourselves by placing the correct thumb on the wheel in order to begin.

The pedal can be operated with only one foot, and it is advised to first not push it all at the same time however if you tap it with your fingers as if we were listening to the beat of the drummer. This technique aids in the sensitivity of the foot.

Start with a cloth that is folded and then go back and forth to ensure that we don’t go at a pace that makes us nervous, we use the help of the stitch regulator to make it smaller. A good stitch, to begin with, is no. 4. The bigger your stitch is, the more powerful the machine will be, so you’ll need to do it again and again because it’s one of the best ways to master by practicing, practicing, and working.

If the thread has been cut or the fabric is wrinkled then you must loosen the tension of the upper thread regulator. If it continues to do so, you must also control the thread on the bobbin. This can be done by getting the holder of the bobbin, and using a screwdriver, loosening the small screw we can see within it as illustrated in the picture that this process must be accomplished slowly and I will remind you that when you rotate the bobbin in a clockwise direction, the screw adjusts, evidently in reverse the screw becomes looser.

The basics to get started with this kind of machine. However, after an amount of time, you’ll surely be able to see this as a joke and if that happens you will know you’ve succeeded!

What is the difference between a home and an industrial sewing machine?

Domestic devices are primarily created for use at home and by individuals. Industrial machines often just have one or two stitches, whereas domestic machines come with all those beautiful stitches. Industrial machines need routine cleaning and lubrication, so choosing not to maintain the machine is typically a deciding factor.

What kind of sewing machines are used for industrial use?

Can be applied to the industry. Ideal for sewing medium to heavy weight materials, including leather, vinyl, and textiles. Automatic 2-needle Coverstitch Sewing Machine by S. Zoya. Almost brand new. over and above our needs operates flawlessly. slick as silk.

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